{"id":357831,"date":"2020-01-01T12:52:15","date_gmt":"2020-01-01T12:52:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.antiquejewellerycompany.com\/?p=357831"},"modified":"2024-12-10T17:25:00","modified_gmt":"2024-12-10T17:25:00","slug":"a-guide-to-georgian-jewellery","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.antiquejewellerycompany.com\/a-guide-to-georgian-jewellery\/","title":{"rendered":"A Guide to Georgian Jewellery"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The Georgian Lifestyle<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Named after the four King Georges who ruled in succession through this period, the Georgian era was prosperous and revolutionary, particularly in politics, art and architecture. Georgian jewellery was no exception.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"King
(l-r) George I, George II, George III, George IV<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Many of the great stately homes were built in this period. The English were gradually building an Empire that would span the globe. It was a time of Mozart, Gainsborough and the decorative aesthetics of Rococo, Neoclassicism, and Romanticism. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Marble
The Palladian Villa of Marble Hill House in Twickenham, London<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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\"Kedleston
Neo-classical splendour at Kedleston Hall, Derbyshire<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

In America it was a period marked by a Revolution and George Washington; in France, Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, the French Revolution and Napoleon; in Russia, the reign of Catherine the Great. All of this, combined with leaps in science and world exploration, the introduction of rail travel and a changing role for women in society created a rich and fascinating backdrop for Georgian jewellery.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Vauxhall
An entertainment in Vauxhall Gardens in about 1779, by Thomas Rowlandson. The two women in the centre are Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire and her sister Lady Duncannon. The man seated at the table on the left is Samuel Johnson, with James Boswell to his left and Oliver Goldsmith to his right. To the right the actress and author Mary Darby Robinson stands next to the Prince of Wales, later George IV<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

It was a time of excess and high society hedonism. Outlandish men’s fashions brought us the Macaronis<\/em> and Incroyables<\/em> of the era, with their bright, tight, exaggerated clothing and flamboyant hairdos. The upper class women’s fashion evolved from flamboyant corsets and bustling skirts to more demure Empire line dresses we know from Jane Austen’s characters, influenced by the stylish French and the fashion for all things Ancient Greece and Rome. Fashions and styles were shared internationally. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Macaroni
The look of horror on the farmer’s face at seeing his son dressed as a macaroni with high wig, cane and sword (1773) \u00a9 The Trustees of the British Museum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Features to look out for<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Georgian jewellery is recognisable by a few stand-out features. It was painstakingly hand-made by skilled artisans, so gemstones and metalwork from this era are a little ‘rough around the edges’ compared with the neat craftsmanship of more recent eras. This also means that gold was not stamped with the gold karat weight, so it takes an expert to identify the best pieces. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Georgian
“A little rough around the edges”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Styles were dramatic and ornate, thanks partly to intricate metalwork techniques such as repouss\u00e9<\/em> (the hammering of metal into ornate designs) and cannetille<\/em> (a method of working the gold wire to make it look woven). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Georgian
Repouss\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"A
A Georgian 18ct Gold & Topaz Pendant on Chain<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Silver, 18-karat gold (often in combination with silver) and pinchbeck, an alloy that was part copper and part zinc and was created to resemble gold, were often used around this time. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
A Georgian Pinchbeck Chain with Turquoise Set Clasp<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Germany and France funded wars by asking citizens to donate gold in return for steel or iron. As a result, some beautiful steel and iron pieces exist from the Georgian era. Known as \u201cFer de Berlin,\u201d the German iron pieces were replicas of the owner\u2019s original gold jewellery, and they were engraved with \u201cGold gab ich f\u00fcr Eisen<\/em>,\u201d which translates as \u201cI gave gold for iron.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
A Berlin Iron Collar<\/a>, circa 1810<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Gemstones<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pearls, sapphires, rubies and garnets were widely used in Georgian jewellery, often cut in the shape of a cabochon or teardrop. Rubies and pearls were a fashionable combination at the time. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Georgian
Some of our collection of Georgian gemstone rings<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Popular cuts for diamonds included ‘rose cut’, ‘old mine cut’ and ‘table cut’. They lack the ‘sparkle factor’ of more recent diamonds due to less refined cutting techniques. Paste (cutting glass to mimic diamonds and other coloured gemstones) was an early form of costume jewellery, popular with the Georgian era lower classes and aristocracy alike. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Georgian
Examples of Georgian paste jewellery<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Gemstones were regularly backed by foil during this period to provide another layer of luminescence and intensify colours. Closed back, foiled jewellery was therefore the signature style of the Georgian era for gemstones. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Georgian
Georgian jewellery in a contemporary setting<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Symbolism & Motifs<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The design style of Georgian jewellery was quite feminine in feel. Common motifs include flowers, plumes, birds, bugs and even human body parts such as hands or eyes. Portrait miniatures were popular, as was intricate hair jewellery. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Georgian
Portrait miniatures, lover’s eyes, butterflies, clasping hands and flowers <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Georgian
Natural motifs such as flowers, plumes, bugs were common in Georgian jewellery<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tokens of love and remembrance, such as portrait miniatures, silhouettes and eye miniatures, were rife during the Georgian era. Jewellery featuring a lock of a child\u2019s hair was a cherished keepsake for a mother. Women used their own hair to have mementos created for their children, for husbands and for lovers. In fact, by the end of the Georgian era complete suites of jewellery, including bracelets and necklaces, were woven entirely out of hair.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Regency
Woven hair can be found in these Regency 15ct Gold & Woven Hair Drop Earrings<\/a> and a 9ct Gold, Flat Cut Almandine Garnet & Natural Split Pearls Clasp<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Mourning jewellery<\/a> made its first appearance – more macabre than the sentimental Victorian revival of the style and decorated with images of skeletons, gravediggers and coffins. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Georgian
Georgian mourning jewellery makes a stylish and unique fashion statement<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n