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Tiffany & Co: New York Icon

Tiffany & Co. is not just a jewellery store; it’s an experience. From its humble beginnings to its current status as a luxury icon, Tiffany & Co. has become synonymous with elegance, love, and, of course, engagement rings. From its rich history the array of antique and vintage Tiffany jewellery is both vast and beautiful. So, make like Audrey Hepburn, grab a cup of coffee (or some breakfast), and let’s look into the historic world of Tiffany & Co.!

A Humble Beginning: From Stationery to Sparkles

In the early days Tiffany & Co. wasn’t the go-to place for engagement rings and diamond necklaces. It was a fancy goods store. But soon enough, Charles Tiffany, with his sharp eye for quality and flair for the dramatic, decided that jewellery was where the real magic lay. Why sell paper when you can dazzle customers with diamonds? And so Charles pivoted the business toward fine jewellery, transforming the brand into a household name.

Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812-1902), founder of Tiffany & Co., 1837
Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812-1902), founder of Tiffany & Co., 1837
The first Tiffany store in New York City
The first Tiffany store opens in New York City – with a first day’s sales total of $4.98 (image: Tiffany)
Tiffany’s first direct mail catalogue in the U.S, introducing Americans to luxury goods – 1845 (image: Tiffany)
Tiffany exhibition stand, late 19th Century
Tiffany & Co. exhibition stand, late 19th Century
Tiffany shop Union Square
(left to right) Charles Lewis Tiffany and Charles T. Cook at the store on Union Square, 1887, facade of the Union Square shop, the Tiffany design studio, upstairs at Union Square
Tiffany & Co., 5th Avenue
Tiffany & Co., 5th Avenue

The Iconic Blue Box: More Than Just a Gift

Before we get on to antique Tiffany jewellery, let’s talk about the pièce de résistance: the Tiffany Blue Box. The eye-catching robin’s egg blue box has become a cultural icon all on its own! Introduced in 1845, this delightful little package was designed to make every gift feel like an adventure. Charles Tiffany knew that it wasn’t just about what was inside—it was about the anticipation, the excitement, and the pure joy of unwrapping something extraordinary.

Tiffany blue box, 1878 (Image: Tiffany)
Tiffany blue box, 1878 (Image: Tiffany)

Now when people see a blue box they often think… “engagement ring!”

Setting Standards

The Tiffany Standard

In 1851, Tiffany set a precedent that would resonate throughout the jewellery world with the introduction of the “Tiffany Standard.” What’s that, you ask? It’s the mark of quality that established sterling silver at 925 parts per 1,000—a standard that the U.S. would eventually adopt.

The Tiffany Standard
The Tiffany Standard (image: Tiffany)

This commitment to quality wasn’t just a marketing ploy; it was a testament to Tiffany’s dedication to craftsmanship. Charles Tiffany’s reputation for quality and integrity became the bedrock of Tiffany & Co., a promise to customers that they would always receive the very best.

The Tiffany Setting

The Tiffany Setting introduced in 1886, revolutionized engagement rings with its six-prong design that raises the diamond above the band. This setting maximizes light exposure, enhancing the stone’s brilliance and sparkle. It’s iconic for its simplicity and has become a timeless symbol of elegance. Its minimalist and elegant design has set the standard for engagement rings, remaining one of the most sought-after styles globally. It has been argued that this setting is what has made diamond’s the gemstone when we think of engagement rings. This is proof that antique jewellery never goes out of style, especially Tiffany.

The Tiffany Setting
The Tiffany Setting (image: Tiffany)

Sparkling Diamonds: The Story of the Tiffany Diamond

Ah, the Tiffany Diamond! This magnificent gem is like the celebrity of the jewellery world, and it deserves its own red carpet. Discovered in South Africa, the Tiffany Diamond underwent a dramatic transformation by skilled craftsmen. It emerged as a stunning masterpiece, boasting a dazzling 128.54 carats. It features a unique 82-facet cut that makes it one of the most brilliant diamonds in existence. The diamond has a vibrant yellow hue that captures the light and attention of everyone who lays eyes on it.

Lady Gaga wearing The Tiffany Diamond to the 2019 Oscars
Lady Gaga wearing The Tiffany Diamond to the 2019 Oscars

But wait, there’s more! The Tiffany Diamond isn’t just a pretty face. It now sits in a very famous piece of vintage Tiffany jewellery as a statement necklace, which has adorned some of the most glamorous figures. This includes Audrey Hepburn during the iconic photo shoot for Breakfast at Tiffany’s (more on this later).

Design Stars: The Creative Geniuses of Tiffany

Tiffany & Co. wouldn’t be the dazzling entity it is today without its brilliant designers. Here are the creative minds who’ve shaped Tiffany’s aesthetic and brought forth some truly unforgettable pieces.

Louis Comfort Tiffany: The Art Nouveau Pioneer

First up is Louis Comfort Tiffany, the original “Tiffany” and a true creative genius. He was the son of Charles Tiffany and a trailblazer in his own right. Known for his artistry in glasswork, Louis brought a unique flair to Tiffany & Co. by incorporating vibrant colours and organic forms into jewellery design.

Louis Comfort Tiffany
Louis Comfort Tiffany and his Favrile glass vase (Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City)

His antique Tiffany jewellery often featured whimsical shapes inspired by nature and flowing lines. His work embodied the Art Nouveau movement, celebrating the blend of nature’s beauty with fine craftsmanship. (Imagine wearing a pendant that looks like it’s been plucked straight from a fairy tale garden!)

Jean Schlumberger: Whimsy Meets Elegance

Next, we have Jean Schlumberger, the whimsical genius who joined Tiffany in 1956. Schlumberger was known for his use of bold colours and imaginative motifs, often drawing inspiration from the natural world. You could find stunning designs featuring birds, fish, and flowers, all transformed into dazzling jewellery made to make other’s swoon.

Jean Schlumberger and his Bird on a Rock Brooch
Jean Schlumberger and his Bird on a Rock Brooch from 1965 (image: Tiffany)

One of his most beloved creations is the “Bird on a Rock” brooch, bird perched on a large colourful gemstone, creating a playful statement piece. Schlumberger’s jewellery was adored by socialites and celebrities alike, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. With such clientele it’s no wonder that Schlumberger’s creations are still highly coveted today!

Elsa Peretti: Minimalism Meets Modernity

Then there’s Elsa Peretti, who arrived at Tiffany in the 1970s and turned the world of jewellery on its head. Her approach to design was refreshing and modern, embracing minimalism and organic forms. Peretti’s pieces were meant to be worn every day—easy, elegant, and effortlessly chic.

Elsa Peretti and her iconic Bone Ring from 1970
Elsa Peretti and her iconic Bone Ring from 1970 (image: Tiffany)

One of her most iconic designs is the “Open Heart” pendant, which has become a symbol of love and connection. Peretti believed that jewellery should enhance the wearer’s natural beauty rather than overshadow it. With her elegant simplicity, Peretti created vintage Tiffany jewellery pieces that feel modern even today.

Paloma Picasso: Bold, Artistic Flair

Last but certainly not least, we have Paloma Picasso, the daughter of the legendary artist Pablo Picasso. She joined Tiffany in the late 20th century and brought a bold creativity to the brand. Paloma’s designs were all about making a statement—colourful, geometric, and infused with her unique perspective on art.

Paloma Picasso and her Olive Leaf earrings from 1980s
Paloma Picasso and her Olive Leaf earrings from 1980s (image: Tiffany)

Her “Graffiti” collection, inspired by street art and urban culture, showcases her playful and fearless approach to design. With pieces like the “Love” ring and “Bird” earrings, Paloma Picasso embraced the idea that jewellery should be fun and a reflection of the wearer’s individuality.

The Pop Culture Phenomenon: Breakfast at Tiffany’s

We can’t discuss Tiffany & Co. without diving into the cultural phenomenon that is Breakfast at Tiffany’s. This 1961 film starring Audrey Hepburn turned Tiffany’s into a symbol of glamour, sophistication, and dreams.

The film opens with Hepburn standing outside the store, sipping coffee and gazing longingly at the exquisite jewellery displays. That moment captured the essence of aspiration and desire, solidifying Tiffany & Co. as the ultimate destination for love, romance, and dreams. Who wouldn’t want to be Holly Golightly, flitting about the city with a Blue Box in toe?

Hepburn’s performance not only catapulted Tiffany into pop culture stardom but also brought the brand into the homes and hearts of millions. The film’s success confirmed Tiffany & Co. as a household name.

Audrey Hepburn - Breakfast at Tiffany

Tiffany & Co. Today: A Modern Luxury Icon

Fast forward to today, and Tiffany & Co. remains a symbol of luxury, elegance, and innovation. The brand has successfully navigated the changing landscape of the jewellery industry while staying true to its heritage. With a commitment to ethical sourcing and sustainable practices, Tiffany has adapted to the modern consumer’s desire for transparency and responsibility.

The AJC have similar concerns as Tiffany. Read Antique Jewellery: The Thinking Girl’s Answer to Sustainable Luxury to see how jewellery from the past can better our future.

Tiffany & Co. continues to be the go-to destination for engagement rings, offering stunning options that cater to a variety of tastes and styles.

Jay-Z & Beyonce for Tiffany
Beyoncé and JAY-Z for the Tiffany & Co. fall 2021 ABOUT LOVE campaign, shot by Mason Poole (image: Tiffany)

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