The Beginner’s Guide to Collecting Vintage & Antique Jewellery

Between the thrill of the hunt and the delight of owning something unique, collecting vintage and antique jewellery is addictive. It requires neither copious space nor funds and – best of all – can be on full display every day. What’s more, buying pre-loved is the ultimate in sustainable jewellery, so you’re supporting the planet while you’re at it!

It’s never to early (or late) to start collecting antique and vintage jewellery. But it pays to be armed with some know-how. Here are some expert tips to get the ball rolling for the prospective collectors out there.

Consider when you’ll wear it

When you’re hunting for the perfect pieces, being clear about what you want is key. Looking for wearable, day-to-day jewellery? Focus on durable materials and secure settings. Avoid sharp corners that might snag, delicate fastenings, and vulnerable gemstones (particularly if they protrude). And be wary of pure, soft gold if you’re planning to wear it alongside other jewellery.

If instead, you’re looking to collect a statement antique piece like a cocktail ring or collar necklace to wow at the odd drinks party. Then you have the license to buy pieces both wildly impractical and utterly stunning.

Don’t assume you can’t afford it

People assume that by dint of being ‘antique’ or ‘vintage’, the price goes up, where in most cases the opposite is in fact true. There are no manufacturing costs or ‘newness’ premiums. Instead antique and vintage jewellery valued should be based on materials and craftsmanship, and the condition of the piece. (In short, each purchase when collecting antique jewellery is exempt from VAT).

Understand the context

Whether you are interested in history or not, your experience as an antique jewellery collector is far richer when you take the time to explore the context (historic and personal) of the piece. Consider that your necklace has twirled around the ballroom in the heyday of a stately Georgian home. Or that your ring has been marched through the smog of Victorian London. Learning the possible history of pieces adds another dimension of appreciation for the beauty of antiques.

So you’re particularly drawn to a certain era – Art Deco or Georgian, say? Then it’s worth really getting under the skin of that period. From listening to Twenties jazz music to watching Jane Austen’s famous characters on screen. No need to pack yourself off to the library. You can learn about the origins of your antique jewellery collection on Spotify or Netflix.

-An interest in our Regency pieces is the perfect excuse to watch Bridgerton again-

Similarly, if you can’t resist buying statment earrings or have a thing for lockets, almost every popular style has a starting point and a story to tell, if you dig around. Even that charm bracelet you own has roots beyond the Victorian times.

A good place to start is exploring The AJC ‘Our World‘. We’ve packed together a comprehensive History Guide for different periods, a Jewellery School to boost your gemology knowledge, and even a Style File on how to wear your pieces.

Find a trusted dealer

When you’re collecting antique and vintage jewellery you will be relying on your dealer for the essential information. Accurate dating and assessing the materials, craftsmanship and condition of the piece are key to its monetary value and discovering its story.

Building a personal relationship with a dealer is a valuable way to have an extra pair of expert eyes in your search- or rather, a trained snout for the hunt. Dealers have reliable, expert sources and are often approached by people entrusting their sentimental heirlooms for an onward sale.

Don’t be afraid to interrogate your dealer

If you are choosing to invest in a piece of jewellery with a past and (often) no certificate or guarantees. Then it’s important to ask your dealer as many questions as you can about your piece. No dealer expects their clients to be armed with the expertise. Good dealers respect and love each piece as their own, so will be happy to discuss it in detail.

Read our guide to asking all the right questions, to give you the confidence to go out there and buy.

Hold it before you buy

These days, nobody bats an eyelid before buying online. It allows us to explore far and wide to find the perfect pieces. However, when buying antique and vintage jewellery we would always advise our clients to hold a piece in their hands before they commit.

While good photography is an excellent guideline, the size, proportions, weight and lustre of jewellery can be quite different in reality then on screen. Whether it’s by visiting a shop or a showroom, or simply making sure you can return a piece by post if it doesn’t feel right, always aim to assess the physical feel of a piece of jewellery first.

Respect Your Elders: look after your jewellery

While good quality antique and vintage jewellery has real lasting power, it should be treated with the same respect as an old chair or painting. Age can impact strength and techniques have changed over the years. Machine-made jewellery does not have the delicacy of pieces made through artisanal craftsmanship.

Collecting antique jewellery is also about caring for it. Though good antiques are built to stand the test of time. Virtually all jewellery needs some maintenance to keep its sparkle. Different materials call for different cleaning techniques. Some materials – 18 and 24 carat gold and pearls, for example – also need to be stored particularly carefully.

Here are some tips on how to care for antique jewellery so it can age like (or even better than) fine wine:

• How to Look After and Clean Your Jewellery
• The AJC Guide to Diamonds
• The AJC Guide to Emeralds
• The AJC Guide to Rubies

Update or resize (with respect)

It can be fun (and may be necessary) to alter a piece of antique jewellery to create the perfect piece for your collection. Before you buy, check whether any piece you plan to alter is strong enough. Discuss your plans with your dealer and seek any advice you need before you begin.

Do bear in mind that there are guidelines – sometimes even laws – around how much altering you can do before the piece loses its status as antique.

Our team of experts is at your beck and call to discuss updates and resizes and are only an appointment, WhatsApp, or email away. Plus, any quick questions on ring resizing can be answered in this handy article about Resizing an Antique Engagement Ring.

• Book Your Appointment
• WhatsApp Us
• Email Us

Beware of Fakes

Although imitation is the highest from of compliments one must be wary of imitation when buying antiques. While it’s very common to for antique or vintage jewellery to replicate an even earlier style, do beware of modern jewellery posing as antique or vintage jewellery. Modern replicas can be beautiful in their own right. However, their value (both monetary and sentimental) is altered by faux stories, craftsmanship and authenticity.

-The easiest way to avoid this is to always buy from a trusted dealer-

Insure carefully

Collecting something we love leaves us vulnerable to losing not only the item but also the time and consideration spent finding it. Be sure to speak to your insurers about protecting yourself against the theft, loss or damage of your vintage and antique jewellery collection. Especially, as the guidelines and policies are not as straightforward as with modern goods. Make sure your insurer will allow you to replace pieces with equivalent items, not just modern replacements.

Buy what you love

Jewellery is extremely personal and there are no rules when it comes to beauty so don’t let anybody sway your instinct. Buy and wear pieces that speak to you, pieces you can see yourself wearing time and time again. Jewellery is there to be worn, to be expressive, and to be loved.

After all, that is what’s made The AJC so successful Olly’s personal “eye” for antiques.

Start Your Collection at The Antique Jewellery Company

The Antique Jewellery Company is proud to be one of the world’s leading online destinations for antique and vintage jewellery. Our collection spans from the early 19th Century to pre-loved rings from recent years.

Our founder, Olly Gerrish, has over 50 years of experience with antique and vintage jewellery and is an expert in her field. She puts her respected name behind every piece of jewellery we sell. Olly is based in our showroom (when she’s not out hunting) and always loves to have a chit-chat with clients personally. Or get to know our founder from the start of her journey selling antique jewellery at Portobello Market to Mayfair by reading Olly’s Story.

• Meet Our Founder, Olly Gerrish

We hope you enjoy exploring our ever-changing collection and look forward to meeting you personally at our London showroom, should you wish to take a peek at our jewellery in person. We never rush our clients or pressure them into buying and welcome any questions you have about the condition, size of stones or origin of a piece, or even just finding the right style for you.

The AJC offer Free Worldwide Returns, so you if you can’t make it to our showroom can order from our website safe in the knowledge that you can return the item if it isn’t perfect.