The Antique Jewellery Company
Latest Finds What's Hot Expert Picks The Archive Sale Eras Collections
Contact Book Appointment
Wishlist Sign In
The Antique Jewellery Company
Book Your Appointment
Free Delivery, Returns & Sizing
The Antique Jewellery Company Experts since 1975Read Our Story
The Antique Jewellery Company

Art Nouveau 18ct Gold Flower Brooch set with Demantoid Garnets, Mississippi River Pearls & Diamonds

257P
520 Admirers Rare Find
Written by Olly Gerrish

A beautifully designed and executed 18ct gold brooch that was most likely made in America circa 1900-1910. It is typical of the Art Nouveau period in its attention to the flowing botanical design. In the centre is a flower with a lovely ruby in the centre. The five petals are composed of shaped natural baroque pearls. One hundred and fifty years ago America was the source of natural fresh water pearls. They are lustrous, uneven, with crinkled textures known as “Angel Wings” and “Dog Tooth.” American natural pearls are now found only in antique jewellery. The natural Mississippi pearl’s freedom of form was well suited to the naturalistic forms of art nouveau design. They were commonly called Mississippi River pearls or sometimes Unio pearls for the Unios mussel, one of the species in which they are found. These mussels were once common in the freshwater lakes and rivers of the eastern United States.
George F. Kunz, America’s preeminent gemologist was employed by Tiffany & Co. in 1879. Kunz amassed a collection of American gems, pearls and rare mineral specimens for Tiffany’s exhibition at Paris’ 1889 Exposition. Kunz had a close working relationship with Charles Tiffany and his artistic son, Louis Comfort Tiffany. He encouraged them to use the American pearl in the design of jewellery. Jewellery design at this time (late 1890s – 1910s) was heavily influenced by the primarily French Art Nouveau movement.
Around the flower are leaves and tendrils set with green garnets, otherwise known as demantoid garnets, and diamonds. Demantoid garnets had just been discovered in the Urals in Russia and not only were they expensive but they were sought after to set in various jewels in the Art Nouveau period. They are a beautiful vivid apple green colour. There is a further Mississippi pearl drop. The quality and design of this brooch is fantastic. It can also be converted to a pendant as a chain can be attached to both sides.

Ollys Pick

This piece is such great quality and a wonderful Art Nouveau design

Item Number
257P
Measurements
Height 6.2cm
Width at widest point 4cm
Diamonds approx total weight 0.24 carats
Green garnets 0.18 carats
Ruby approx weight 0.25 carats
Provenance
American
Condition
Excellent
Discovered
4 years ago
Sustainable Luxury

The Responsible Choice

Buying antique jewellery is both ethical and eco-friendly as harmful and destructive mining processes are not needed to make an item yours. So give yourself a pat on the back!

Find Out More
Sustainable Luxury
AJC Guarantee
Our Guarantee

Our Guarantee

We always stand by our five core principles:
Quality, Rarity, Expertise, Peace of Mind and Personal Touch

Find Out More