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Victorian Fox Head Reverse Intaglio Rock Crystal & Rose Diamond Tie Pin

996K
Written by Olly Gerrish

An unusual tie pin set with a reverse carved rock crystal of a fox head. Around it are rose diamonds. A reverse crystal intaglio is a rock crystal with an intaglio carved into the flat back. The intaglio was also painted realistically with oils so, that when viewed through the top, the image appears three-dimensional. Finally, the back was sealed in order to preserve the painted areas. The technique originated in Belgium c. 1860 and is attributed to an artist named Emile Marius Pradier. This technique was also practiced in England by Thomas Cook and his descendants who made crystals for Lambeth & Co.
Production of a reverse crystal intaglio begins with the mining and cutting of fine rock crystal from Brazil or Madagascar. A well formed cabochon is the key to a beautifully made reverse intaglio and the tedious process of hand polishing it to perfection had to be completed before the design work could begin. A watercolour of the image was painted on the underside of the cabochon and an oil and dust mixture was used along with up to 250 scribing tools to carve the design into the interior of the crystal “…the deeper the carving the more pronounced “trompe l’oeil effect.” Once the carving was established the painting process began with extremely fine brushes and paint working in reverse to create incredibly detailed images.
The motifs most commonly found are sporting themes – horses, dogs, foxes and birds. This relatively secret process passed through family members, so keeping it exclusive and expectations of quality were very high. They remained in fashion until poorly made glass and plastic imitations flooded the market c. 1920s. This tie pin dates from around 1890. All our tie pins come with a stopper at the end of the pin.

Item Number
996K
Measurements
Diameter 1.2 cm
Rose diamonds approx total weight 28 points
Length of pin 6 cm
Date & Origin
Provenance
English
Hallmarks
Unmarked, tested to 15ct gold
Condition
Very Good
Discovered
7 years ago
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