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Victorian 15ct Gold, Sapphire & Diamond Bar Brooch

880L
Written by Olly Gerrish

A highly detailed gold brooch that was made circa 1880-1900. It has been set with alternate sapphires and diamonds in a line in the centre. Around the edge there is “Etruscan work” which is fine gold wire that has been hand applied. To understand Etruscan Revival jewellery, you have to know of the original Etruscan jewellery unearthed in tombs just outside Rome in the early 1800s. Intricately wrought golden earrings and necklaces were meticulously ornamented with tiny gold beads and twisted wires densely applied to the surface. Noone had seen gold worked like that since the Etruscans had carefully buried the treasures with their dead.
The secret to the fascinating granulation found on the Etruscan hoards was claimed to have been discovered by Fortunato Pio Castellani and he produced many replicas of archeological treasure finds using ancient techniques. Other jewellers copied his technique. This brooch is a good example. On the reverse is an oval locket section.

Item Number
880L
Measurements
Height at highest point 2.1 cm
Width 5.3 cm
Diamonds approx total weight 20 points
Sapphires approx total weight 25 points
Item Materials
Date & Origin
Provenance
English
Hallmarks
Unmarked, tested to 15ct gold
Condition
Excellent
Discovered
4 years ago
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