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French 18ct Gold Hunting Dogs, Pheasant & Duck Rock Crystal Intaglio Cufflinks

902M/PR
Written by Olly Gerrish

A fine pair of rock crystal and gold cufflinks that were made in France circa 1910.  A reverse crystal is a rock crystal with an intaglio carved into the flat back. The intaglio was also painted realistically with oils so, that when viewed through the top, the image appears three-dimensional. Finally, the back was sealed in order to preserve the painted areas. The technique originated in Belgium c. 1860 and is attributed to an artist named Emile Marius Pradier. This technique was also practiced in England by Thomas Cook and his descendants who made crystals for Lambeth & Co.

Production of a reverse crystal intaglio begins with the mining and cutting of fine rock crystal from Brazil or Madagascar. A well-formed cabochon is the key to a beautifully made reverse intaglio and the tedious process of hand polishing it to perfection had to be completed before the design work could begin. A watercolour of the image was painted on the underside of the cabochon and an oil and dust mixture was used along with up to 250 scribing tools to carve the design into the interior of the crystal “…the deeper the carving the more pronounced trompe l’oeil effect.” Once the carving was established the painting process began with extremely fine brushes and paint working in reverse to create incredibly detailed images.
The motifs most commonly found are sporting themes – horses, dogs, foxes and birds. This relatively secret process passed through family members, so keeping it exclusive and expectations of quality were very high. They remained in fashion until poorly made glass and plastic imitations flooded the market c. 1920s.

These cufflinks were made circa 1900-1910 and feature two hunting dogs, a pheasant and a duck. Cufflinks such as these are very collectable today.

Item Number
902M/PR
Measurements
Diameter 24 mm
Item Materials
Date & Origin
Provenance
French
Hallmarks
Eagle's head (French mark for for 18ct gold)
Design no 11987 & 5543
Condition
Excellent
Discovered
5 years ago
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