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Edwardian 18ct Gold Reverse Intaglio Rock Crystal Game Bird Cufflinks

971U
Written by Olly Gerrish

A fine pair of rock crystal and 18ct gold cufflinks that were made in England circa 1880-1900. A reverse crystal intaglio is a rock crystal cabochon with an intaglio carved into the flat back. The intaglio was also painted realistically with oils so, that when viewed through the top, the image appears three-dimensional. Finally, the back was sealed in order to preserve the painted areas. The technique originated in Belgium c. 1860 and is attributed to an artist named Emile Marius Pradier. This technique was also practiced in England by Thomas Cook and his descendants who made crystals for Lambeth & Co.

Production of a reverse crystal intaglio begins with the mining and cutting of fine rock crystal from Brazil or Madagascar. A well-formed cabochon is the key to a beautifully made reverse intaglio and the tedious process of hand polishing it to perfection had to be completed before the design work could begin. A watercolour of the image was painted on the underside of the cabochon and an oil and diamond dust mixture was used along with up to 250 scribing tools to carve the design into the interior of the crystal “…the deeper the carving the more pronounced trompe l’oeil effect.” Once the carving was established the painting process began with extremely fine brushes and paint working in reverse to create incredibly detailed images.
The motifs most commonly found are sporting themes – horses, dogs, foxes and birds. This relatively secret process passed through family members, so keeping it exclusive and expectations of quality were very high. They remained in fashion until poorly made glass and plastic imitations flooded the market c. 1920s.

These rock crystal cufflinks feature a duck, a snipe, a pheasant and a grouse and are highly detailed and in very good condition. The crystal is backed with mother of pearl. Cufflinks such as these are very collectable today.

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Item Number
971U
Measurements
Each link 1.6cm by 1.4cm
Materials
Date & Origin
Provenance
English
Hallmarks
Marked 18c (for 18ct gold)
Condition
Very Good
Care Tips
  • Avoid immersion in water
  • Take special care of historical jewellery
Discovered
8 months ago

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